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23 de jul. de 2020 · The 1690s silhouette for women was extremely vertical and linear with the long-trained mantua being amplified by the towering fontange lace headdress. The more modest jacket-style mantua bodices are often attributed to the influence of Madame de Maintenon, the secret wife of King Louis XIV. Men’s coats gained fuller skirts and their wigs were ...
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The Fez and the Ottoman Path to Modernity. In 19th century,...
- Fontange
Fontange - 1690-1699 | Fashion History Timeline
- Mantua
Mantua - 1690-1699 | Fashion History Timeline
- Justine De Young
Justine De Young - 1690-1699 | Fashion History Timeline
- Garment Analysis
Garment Analysis - 1690-1699 | Fashion History Timeline
- Designers
Designers - 1690-1699 | Fashion History Timeline
- Artwork Analysis
Artwork Analysis - 1690-1699 | Fashion History Timeline
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20 de jul. de 2020 · Again in the 1680s these patches were rarely worn in portraits, but feature in all the fashion prints of the period (Figs. 5-6, 8-10). Fig. 8 - Arnold van Westerhout (Italian, 1651-1725). French Lady dressed as a Sultana with a fan, 1689. Hand-colored engraving. London: Victoria and Albert Museum, E.21583-1957.
- Overview
- Colonial America
- The Ottoman Empire
North America was colonized by settlers from northern and western Europe. These settlers brought with them habits and ideas in dress that were characteristic of their places of origin, but their clothes were also influenced by the climate of the part of the country to which they had come. For example, the earliest settlers, the Spanish, arrived in Florida in 1565. There, as well as in their later settlements in Texas and California, the climate was not very different from that of Spain, so that the colonists continued to wear Spanish styles. In contrast, colonists farther north in New England experienced harsher winters than they had been accustomed to and so found a greater need than they had in England to wear furs and skins.
Many colonists thought it important to preserve class distinctions in all areas. Because of this, they passed many sumptuary laws that proscribed what members of the different classes could purchase or own; protocol in dress was a visible expression of their determination to maintain their heritage. Similar laws restricting dress were also passed for religious reasons, reflecting some of the areas of conflict that led to the English Civil Wars (1642–51). In America, as in England, plain dress and rich dress became, in effect, the respective symbols of the Puritan and the Cavalier, respectively. Many Virginia colonists leaned toward the Cavalier; Puritan ideas prevailed in Massachusetts. The Puritan penchant for simpler dress had begun before their departure for America. Having moved overseas, they continued to omit such extravagances as fine brocades, rich laces, ribbons, and feathers.
Probably the greatest change in clothing in America, as opposed to Europe, took place in the everyday working costume, with the Americans wearing heavier and warmer clothing made of stronger and stouter materials. The distinguishing characteristic of all clothes listed in the inventories of the colonization companies is their wearing quality, and the terms “heavy cloth” and “strong durable stuff” are often encountered. Men and boys wore comfortable, durable jackets and breeches, for example, made from deerskin and buckskin tanned to the consistency of fine chamois with the use of animal brains, a process the colonists had learned from the Indians.
For many English colonists the early years were hard. Most people made their own clothes, cultivating flax and cotton and raising sheep for wool. Clothes for everyday wear were plainer versions of those worn back in England. Best clothes were kept for Sundays and holidays; such garments lasted a long time, and most colonists were therefore wearing styles considered old-fashioned in England. For example, men wore breeches full at the waist, a doublet and jerkin, and a hip-length, loose overgarment that had been fashionable in Europe in the later 16th century. This was the mandilion, derived from the medieval tabard. It was now a loose jacket with free-hanging sleeves. It had been adopted by the Puritans, whose version was generally lined with cotton and fastened with hooks and eyes. By mid-century the buff coat had also become a staple garment among colonists in New England. Originally a military coat made of hide, it was durable and warm; it was cut simply in four sections, with or without sleeves.
The everyday dress of women was a short gown of durable material, with a full skirt over a homespun petticoat, covered by a long apron of white linen. The more stylish dress was longer and made of finer material. It often had the virago sleeve—full at elbow and shoulder and drawn in at intervals by strings of narrow ribbon—that appears in most 17th-century portraits of American women and children.
Stockings were either knitted or cut from woven cloth and sewn to fit the leg. They were attached to men’s breeches by points, or strings, which were also used to secure other garments; later, sashlike garters replaced points. Both men and women wore stout leather shoes with medium heels. Men also wore French falls, a buff leather boot with a high top wide enough to be crushed down. After 1660 the jackboot, a shiny black leather boot large enough to pull over shoe or slipper, replaced the French falls; oxfords of black leather were worn by schoolchildren.
North America was colonized by settlers from northern and western Europe. These settlers brought with them habits and ideas in dress that were characteristic of their places of origin, but their clothes were also influenced by the climate of the part of the country to which they had come. For example, the earliest settlers, the Spanish, arrived in Florida in 1565. There, as well as in their later settlements in Texas and California, the climate was not very different from that of Spain, so that the colonists continued to wear Spanish styles. In contrast, colonists farther north in New England experienced harsher winters than they had been accustomed to and so found a greater need than they had in England to wear furs and skins.
Many colonists thought it important to preserve class distinctions in all areas. Because of this, they passed many sumptuary laws that proscribed what members of the different classes could purchase or own; protocol in dress was a visible expression of their determination to maintain their heritage. Similar laws restricting dress were also passed for religious reasons, reflecting some of the areas of conflict that led to the English Civil Wars (1642–51). In America, as in England, plain dress and rich dress became, in effect, the respective symbols of the Puritan and the Cavalier, respectively. Many Virginia colonists leaned toward the Cavalier; Puritan ideas prevailed in Massachusetts. The Puritan penchant for simpler dress had begun before their departure for America. Having moved overseas, they continued to omit such extravagances as fine brocades, rich laces, ribbons, and feathers.
Probably the greatest change in clothing in America, as opposed to Europe, took place in the everyday working costume, with the Americans wearing heavier and warmer clothing made of stronger and stouter materials. The distinguishing characteristic of all clothes listed in the inventories of the colonization companies is their wearing quality, and the terms “heavy cloth” and “strong durable stuff” are often encountered. Men and boys wore comfortable, durable jackets and breeches, for example, made from deerskin and buckskin tanned to the consistency of fine chamois with the use of animal brains, a process the colonists had learned from the Indians.
For many English colonists the early years were hard. Most people made their own clothes, cultivating flax and cotton and raising sheep for wool. Clothes for everyday wear were plainer versions of those worn back in England. Best clothes were kept for Sundays and holidays; such garments lasted a long time, and most colonists were therefore wearing styles considered old-fashioned in England. For example, men wore breeches full at the waist, a doublet and jerkin, and a hip-length, loose overgarment that had been fashionable in Europe in the later 16th century. This was the mandilion, derived from the medieval tabard. It was now a loose jacket with free-hanging sleeves. It had been adopted by the Puritans, whose version was generally lined with cotton and fastened with hooks and eyes. By mid-century the buff coat had also become a staple garment among colonists in New England. Originally a military coat made of hide, it was durable and warm; it was cut simply in four sections, with or without sleeves.
The everyday dress of women was a short gown of durable material, with a full skirt over a homespun petticoat, covered by a long apron of white linen. The more stylish dress was longer and made of finer material. It often had the virago sleeve—full at elbow and shoulder and drawn in at intervals by strings of narrow ribbon—that appears in most 17th-century portraits of American women and children.
Stockings were either knitted or cut from woven cloth and sewn to fit the leg. They were attached to men’s breeches by points, or strings, which were also used to secure other garments; later, sashlike garters replaced points. Both men and women wore stout leather shoes with medium heels. Men also wore French falls, a buff leather boot with a high top wide enough to be crushed down. After 1660 the jackboot, a shiny black leather boot large enough to pull over shoe or slipper, replaced the French falls; oxfords of black leather were worn by schoolchildren.
From the early 12th century the Byzantine Empire had begun its slow decline in the face of the Turkish advance. In 1324 or 1326 the Ottoman Turks captured Bursa, on the opposite side of the Sea of Marmara from Constantinople, and this city became the first capital of the Ottoman Empire. In 1453, Constantinople itself fell to the Turks. By then the fashions of each culture had been influencing one another for many years. From the Turks had come the wearing of the caftan and trousers; the Byzantines contributed beautiful silks, jeweled embroideries, and cloth of gold. The Turks adopted this richness of attire with such enthusiasm that, by the 16th century, sultans were trying to stem the tide of luxury in dress, as western Europe had long been attempting to do, by the passing of sumptuary laws forbidding the wearing of these materials and decoration except by the privileged few.
From the 15th century until the modernization of Turkey soon after 1918, the basic garments of the general population changed comparatively little. Although a Europeanization movement had begun about the middle of the 19th century, this was a slow process, affecting mainly the dress of the upper strata of society and that of the urban population. For many years such attire was a blend of styles from western Europe worn together with traditional Ottoman garments.
Traditional men’s dress comprised a shirt, trousers, jacket, and boots. The trousers were of the very full, baggy type (similar to the Middle Eastern chalvar), fitting tightly only on the lower leg. A deep waist sash, the kuşak, bound the body over the junction between trouser and shirt. The jacket was a short one, worn open, and was decoratively embroidered. In cold weather a caftan would be worn on top of these garments. The only difference between the clothing worn by the average member of the population and those in a higher social class was that the garments of the latter would be made from richer, more decorative fabrics and that a long caftan would be worn on top. Sometimes more than one such coat was worn, with or without sleeves.
The traditional Turkish cap, the tarboosh, resembles an inverted flower pot and is made of cloth or felt. Similar to the fez, a term believed to have derived from the Moroccan town of that name, this cap was for centuries under the Ottoman Empire bound around the brow with a turban. The cap was made part of the national dress of the Turks during the 19th century and remained so until it was proscribed when Turkey became a republic in 1923. It is still worn by Muslims of both sexes in the Middle East.
The dress for women in the Ottoman Empire was very similar to that worn by Muslim women in the Middle East. It consisted of a knee-length, white, sleeved chemise (gömlek) and long drawers tied at the waist (dislik). The usual full trousers (chalvar) were accompanied, as in men’s dress, by a decorative waist sash (kuşak). Over these garments a waistcoat (yelek) and long gown (anteri) were worn. Backless slippers were worn indoors. Outdoors the enveloping cloak (tcharchaf) and veil (yashmak) were obligatory, and decorative pattens (kub-kobs) kept the elegant slippers out of the mud of the streets.
The Ottoman Empire extended its control westward in Europe over the Balkans and as far as Hungary, where masculine dress was strongly influenced by Turkish styles. Until well into the 18th century men in these non-Muslim areas wore the dolman over the mente (both are styles of caftan), together with trousers, boots, and a fur-trimmed hat known as the kucsma. Dress for women in these areas, however, followed the current styles of western Europe.
1650–1700 in Western fashion. The elegant gentleman wears a coat, waistcoat, and breeches. The lady's bodice is long-waisted and her over skirt is draped and pinned up behind, Dutch, 1678. Fashion in the period 1650–1700 in Western clothing is characterized by rapid change. The style of this era is known as Baroque.
2 de abr. de 2021 · Download Full Size Image. A drawing of a couple in traditional Colonial American formal attire. The woman wears a richly decorated brocade dress with floral designs, while the man is dressed in a suit of uncut velvet and holds a tricorne hat. From Historic Dress in America 1607 - 1800 by Elisabeth McClellan.
5 de feb. de 2018 · 17th Century Fashion and Trends. Published and Created by: Ailyn Castillo. 0 Favorites 2 Copies (view) Social Studies Age Levels Post-Secondary. Colonial America was characterized by intensely detailed and heavy clothing. Details were emphasized greatly on clothing because it displayed elegance a...
